Wednesday, 14 June 2017

Corn, Concrete and Chang

Namaste! Sawadeekha!

Welcome to Thailand. Rather, welcome back!

Another month has passed and we have no idea where it went. After completing the circuit, Moo and her two trekking buddies headed to Pokhara to relax for a week or so before moving on to a place called Chitwan. It is a part of Nepal very close to the border with India, and, consequentially is very very very very very very very hot. We embarked upon another workaway where we were to stay at an 'Eco Park' - a communal campsite with responsibilities that included (and were pretty much limited to) 'erecting corn'. This meant spending two hours just after sunrise standing up corn crops that the buffalo had trampled on. Fields and fields of corn awaited us and although it was early the sun was inevitably scorching and the work was hard. The task of erecting corn itself wasn't so difficult, it was more the scale of things that proved a challenge. Nevertheless, we managed to still make it enjoyable with a good bunch of fellow volunteers and a cracking 'corn erecting' playlist.

We were given a day off at the weekend and our host suggested that we take the local bus to the middle of nowhere and look for the river so we could have a swim.

The river that we found was the border between us and the national park, and we were lucky enough to spot elephants in the distance when we arrived. Beaming with excitement for the promise of a cool dip in the water, we quickly stripped off and jumped in with our beers in hand. We'd been relaxing for all of 5 minutes when a local guy came running over and told us, 'no swim. crocodiles!'

Now for some reason which escapes me now, we didn't take this guy seriously. Perhaps he didn't deliver it with the sense of urgency that you'd expect in that situation. Whatever it was, the message didn't relay. So we carried on swimming.

A further 5 minutes had passed when another guy approached and pretty much shouted us out of the water. His manner was much more concerned. It did the trick. No sooner had we left the water that we noticed in the distance a scaly friend stalking its way up stream.

H-o-l-y S-h-i-t


Woops!

Despite our near death experience, the day turned out to be pretty chilled and ended with a huge camp fire (I know, a fire... in the desert... didn't seem entirely necessary. But it made a great aaaaawmbience.)

The cheeky children of Chitwan

Croc river


Walking back with an entourage

Corn is the future

Eco Park


Flunky Ball


Me and my new bestie


Saying goodbye to Eco Park was once again difficult as we'd formed a great bond with our fellow corn erecters. Alas, I am sure we will all meet again somewhere in the world!

It was time now to embark upon the adventure that we had heard so much about in our time in Nepal.

We boarded yet another rickety bus and made our way from Kathmandu to a town called Thulo Pakar where we would spend the next 3 weeks building schools that had been ruined by the 2015 earthquake.

This was where the real hard work began. Mixing masala and concrete 7 hours a day, 6 days a week in 40 degree heat, carrying bricks up and down site and gathering bamboo from near by valleys. Absolute killer. But booooyyyy did it feel good to see that school going up! And the wind down at base and temple bar was always just what you needed after a hard day's work. This was where we met our friend Verity who was to join us in Thailand for our first 2 weeks.

Following in dad's footsteps

Chamuna

Brick cutting

The 'nice' toilets at camp

Base

Walking to catch the bus home from work

Chamuna

Preparing for a lock in (due to local elections and political tensions)

Yita!






Lunch

Moo's message to the volunteers


After a crazy final few days in Kathmandu, coupled with some chill out time in mountainous Nagarkot, we boarded a plane and journeyed on to Bangkok.

Verity and Moo had vowed not to take the well trodden tourist path, and instead made their own somewhat improvised route a few hours west of the city. We started in Kanchanburi, staying on a rafthouse overlooking the Bridge on the River Kwai, where we embraced the history of the place, educating ourselves by watching The Railway Man (with a scene that featured our actual rafthouse in the distance!!) and taking a trip to the Hellfire Pass museum.

We then moved on to the surrounding rainforest, edging closer and closer to the border with Myanmar until we were basically just walking distance away. We crossed the Mon bridge, the second longest wooden bridge in the world, with some snap happy monks from the Three Pagodas Pass who asked US for selfies with their top of the range iPhones (always a confusing image to me).

We spent the night in a treehouse, met lots of lovely local people, stayed on the river in Amphawa by the floating market and finally relaxed on the beach in Cha Am - our first bit of sea and sand in 3 months of travel! From here we went our separate ways, but will surely see each other again in the UK.

Final All Hands farewell in Kathmandu

Our gorgeous cottage in Nagarkot

The Bridge on the River Kwai

Rafthouse views
Rafthouse


Erawan falls

Hellfire Pass

Hornbill

Lonely waterfall in Thong Pha Phum national park

Our treehouse

Myanmar Monks on the Mon Bridge

Amphawa floating market

Last beer on the beach!


Me and Mini Georgie riding the Death Railway


Hitching in the rain!


Now we are in Bangkok, patiently awaiting the arrival of our DAD!! We have a flight to Phuket in a few hours where we will spend one night in a hostel before checking into a hotel and preparing everything for his lordship!

Words cannot describe how excited we are. You'll just have to hold on and see what we get up to!

From One Nutty Moo to Another
x

Tuesday, 2 May 2017

Moo in the Mountains

Long time no speak, we have so much to catch up on!

Let me begin by saying Namaste, and I hope you are all well.


Moo and I have spent the last two months pottering about in the stunning Himalayas and we're here to tell you all about it, so if you've got plans.. like watching paint dry, cleaning the toilet, counting how many kitchen tiles you have.. then by all means stop reading now. I mean really, those tiles wont count themselves.

Anyway, it all began when we ventured to our first workaway placement in a small town called Gaunshahar in central Nepal. As it is not on the tourist map we were allowed a real insight into Nepali mountain life. From morning cuddles with our neighbours baby to Dal Bhat and Roxi (local wine served from an old oil canister), it was a truly special experience. Our responsibilities here ranged from teaching (playing with) the children at the school to actually helping with the construction of a new library. This proved to be quite a challenge, carrying heavy boulders up steep hills in the scorching sunlight - but it was a rewarding one, watching the progress rapidly improve each day until we finally had a building!

Construction in progress



Team work


Lovely neighbours

Breakfast views


Cool dude


<3




The Dillu Lama

Home, sweet home








Miss these lovely little people!


Teaching baby monopoly
The original residency of the Nepalese royal family


Following our two weeks in the mountains we made our way to Pokhara, the hippie hub of Nepal. We'd made plans to start the Annapurna Circuit after just a couple of days there, but found that time has a habit of slipping away while you're relaxing in a café watching the fireflies by the lake... So one week later we got moving and embarked upon the first big trek of our lives!

What a way to start, too. From lush green valleys, to stupendous waterfalls, apple pie, deep fried mars bars (oops - veganism was suspended for the duration of the trek - not only do you need strong legs for the trek but you also need strong will!)... and then of course to the snow. Beautiful, untouched winter wonderland.









Making friends with the policemen


Lunch views



I have to tell you about what was possibly the best night of the circuit for Moo. We had been trekking for a few days and had started to reach high altitude, where breathing was becoming harder and the temperature had dropped considerably. It had been a tough climb to the town of Upper Pisang, and the group were ready to retire for the evening. Having found a lodge and unpacked, Moo and her roomie, Gemma, noticed that their beds were damp. Given that we were at high altitude and our breathing was shorter already, we knew that sleeping in damp conditions wouldn't have been sensible. So, in true British style, we gently explained the situation to the owner and asked if we could have an extra blanket, or to switch to the neighbouring room. Apparently this was all too much, and it essentially ended in a heated discussion where we were invited to deal with it or leave. Of course, Moo doesn't handle rudeness so well, so packed up her belongings and stormed out into the cold wearing her flip flops.

The others decided to stay; they hadn't quite been at the brunt of the debate as Moo had, and it was more personal for her by this point. Fuck rudeness. So off she went, a little lost MooCow wandering about in the mountains searching for a bed. She didn't have to wander far before she heard a distant voice cry, "SISTER!! DI DI!!". Turning the corner revealed a smiling old Nepali lady tending to her vegetable plot while waving Moo over. Intrigued, we approached, and discovered that she had a 'guesthouse' of her own. Although extreeeemely basic and completely unoccupied despite being on a busy strip of the trek, this was by far the best decision we made. She welcomed us with open arms as if we were her own flesh and blood. We spent the evening sat around the fire with her and her friend, being chain-fed Tibetan tea (made with Yak butter) and tschampa porridge. We enjoyed a hearty Dal Bhat for dinner and returned to our bed with a warm feeling in our hearts. Although this was one of the colder nights of the circuit, Moo and I slept with ease. Leaving her the next morning was tough, and she gave us both a big squeeze (and a homemade apple pie) before sending us on our way.





One simple evening of kindness really enhanced our whole experience of the circuit, and we will be eternally grateful to our Nepali mother for this. She encouraged us to bring back our own Mother (who we showed her pictures of and she exclaimed NAMRO! - Beautiful!) and I'd be delighted to do so.

Well, Mum. What do you say?

If you look closely you can see the word AVALANCHE written on the mountain...


Arrival in Manang - eat EVERYTHING

My first yak sighting


Loading the fire with yak shit


Crossing the pass


Chocolate apple crumble <3



Quick swim mid-trek

Round 2 - reaching Annapurna Base Camp (can you spot me and mini Georgie?)

Again - can you spot us? Possibly the first cow and kiwi to cross the Thorong La Pass!





That's all we'll bore you with for now, expect another blog in the coming weeks documenting our final month in Nepal. It's gonna be a good one!



From One Nutty Moo to Another

x